Stop press
Just as the book was about to go to print, we discovered that Via Enoteca had new owners: the dynamic duo from Demo (see page 24). The guarantee of good food and good service is still in place, and the aim of keeping the establishment among Helsinki’s best bars. Watch this space.
Quattrocentro vini
“We stock about 400 different wines, 80 per cent of which are Italian,” says Via Enoteca restaurant manager Mika Kekki. “Almost all are available by the glass except for a few rarities. Well, of course you can have just a glass of those too, but you have to buy the whole bottle!”
By succeeding as a wine bar, this establishment has confounded the so-called experts who said it could never be done. The soul of the business, Riikka Sukula, and her husband, chef Jyrki Sukula, have set an example for others to follow – like the Foxy Wine Bar nearby.
Via Enoteca is housed in a building that served as a base for the newspaper Päivälehti more than a century ago. It later became Helsingin Sanomat which is Finland’s biggest newspaper today. The wine bar interior is a powerful yet intimate combination of dark wood furniture, warm earth tones on the walls, and a ceiling high enough to induce dizziness – but soft-brown to avoid any coldness. The décor impresses Finns and non-Finns alike. Judging by the color palette you might think you had been transported outside the country – not for long though as staff will soon bring you back to Ludviginkatu. Service is certainly expert but not heartfelt – rather distant, bordering on cool.
One of the best things about Via Enoteca is the adjacent restaurant Via and people flow freely between the two. Next door meanwhile is Alko, the state-owned alcohol retail shop. This is a really excellent branch with staff who are well known for their wine expertise.
via enoteca
Address Ludviginkatu 6-8, 00130 Helsinki
Tel. +358 9 68113710
Website www.viaravintola.com
Seats 70
Open Mon-Tue 14:00-22:00, Wed-Thu 14:00-24:00,Fri 14:00-02:00, Sat 15:00-02:00, Sun closed
Signature drink House wine (Italian table wine)
Restaurateur Riikka and Jyrki Sukula
Restaurant manager Mika Kekki
Sommelier Juha Tanskanen
Location Just off Erottaja, across from Diana Park.
“Nice staff. Unusual wines and delicious antipasti in a historical setting”. / “Modern wine bar: stop by for a glass or have a do-it-yourself tasting. The great antipasti are a bonus – for some reason they taste better at Enoteca than at the mother-restaurant Via.” / “Easily approachable; the unpretentious clientele makes it a comfortable and casual place that also works well for girlfriends to meet up. Excellent wines that come with detailed information when required.” / “The interior and ornate ceiling create an intimate atmosphere. Interesting wines and well-priced champagne.” / “Incredible handpicked wines, knowledgeable staff, the coolest bar ceiling in town. But it’s a wine bar – not a bar. Yet better than most bars.”
